Round Trip for Less Than 10,000 Yen on Shinkansen! Visiting Yamagata During JR East’s First Time Sale [Report]

JR East conducted its first-ever Shinkansen time sale in May. On the first day, there was such a rush of access that it became difficult to connect to “Ekinet.” As a result, the company changed the release start dates to allow reservations by direction. I decided to use this time sale to visit Yamagata via the Yamagata Shinkansen.

I boarded “Tsubasa 135” departing from Tokyo Station at 11:00 a.m. on a weekday in early June. The train used was an E3 series, announced to retire during fiscal 2025. “Tsubasa” operates coupled with the E5 series “Yamabiko” between Tokyo and Fukushima Stations. “Yamabiko/Tsubasa 135” arrived at around 10:48 a.m. After the turnaround cleaning, boarding started at about 10:55 a.m. The efficiency of the staff is always impressive. The train departed on time at 11:00 a.m.

Unlike the Tokaido Shinkansen, there were hardly any foreign tourists on “Tsubasa.” This seemed to confirm the current situation where there are few foreign tourists visiting the Tohoku region.

The occupancy rate of Car 15, which I was in, was about 50% upon departure from Ōmiya Station. Meanwhile, Cars 12 and 13 behind were somewhat crowded, with about 70-80% occupancy. Particularly for those getting off at Yamagata Station, it is convenient as the ticket gate is at the home end near Car 17.

Onboard, I enjoyed my favorite station lunch, “Gyuni-doman-naka.” This is a specialty bento from Yonezawa Station, which has become more well-known nationwide in recent years. It can also be purchased at Tokyo Station’s “Ekibenya Matsuri” and “Ekibenya Odoru” for 1,480 yen (tax included).

▲ You can buy Gyuni-doman-naka at Tokyo Station, priced at 1,480 yen (incl. tax)

At Fukushima Station, the rear 10 cars of “Yamabiko” were detached, and “Tsubasa” continued towards Yamagata. The train arrived at its terminal, Yamagata Station, at the scheduled time of 1:44 p.m.

From Yamagata Station, I rented a car to tour various places within the prefecture. The first place I visited was “Mogamikawa Senbon Dango” in Ōishida Town. Being a weekday, I was able to enter without waiting.

▲ “Kurumi Dango” and “Zundan Dango,” each 245 yen (dine-in, incl. tax)

Next, I visited Ginzan Onsen in Obanazawa City, a hot spring town that gained attention for its snow-covered landscapes on SNS and beyond. In June, it was the off-season with fewer people, allowing a leisurely stroll through the town enveloped in fresh greenery. Note that many facilities offer day-use baths only until early afternoon, so an early visit is recommended.

Returning to Yamagata City in the evening, I had Yonezawa beef, a brand representing Yamagata. The excellent quality and rich flavor of the meat were impressive.

▲ Famous sukiyaki at “Yonezawa Gyuu Tokhiwa”

The next day, I drove to Tsuruoka City. The first stop was Kamo Aquarium, renowned for its world-leading jellyfish display, where moon jellyfish gracefully drifted in massive tanks. I then visited Mount Haguro of the Dewa Sanzan. The towering National Treasure five-story pagoda, surrounded by cedar trees, exuded a solemn atmosphere.

▲ Kamo Aquarium’s “Jellyfish Dream Theater”

▲ Mount Haguro’s Five-story Pagoda within Dewa Sanzan Shrine

On the return trip, I boarded “Tsubasa 154” departing Yamagata Station at 5:05 p.m. The train used was the same E3 series as the outward journey. For those wanting to ride the new E8 series train, it’s recommended to check JR East’s website prior to booking, as they announce E8 series services there.

The train departed Yamagata Station on time, but arrived at Fukushima Station about 10 minutes late, due to a preceding Tohoku Shinkansen train delay. After coupling with the E5 series “Yamabiko 154,” it reached the terminal Tokyo Station about 10 minutes late, at around 7:58 p.m. Due to the delay, the arrival platform was the uncommon Track 20.

Thus concluded the 1-night, 2-day trip to Yamagata. Few foreign tourists were seen at Yamagata attractions, allowing for quiet enjoyment. While it’s true it was a weekday during the off-season, it stands in contrast to the current situation where popular tourist spots nationwide are crowded with foreigners. Despite having attractive tourism resources, it’s a shame they are not fully utilized. Regional dispersion of tourists is a key issue for the future of Japan’s tourism.